Of all the experiences I have had to date, representing the UK and military in Bulgaria, is up there with the best. Icarus (the RAF Officers’ Team) play many high profile fixtures throughout the football season and we play in several cup competitions. Due to us all being based all over the country, the season usually begins with an overseas visit. This is where we play local sides, train daily and engage in some defence-related activities, to prepare us for the season ahead.
Last year saw us head out to Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria, for our annual (and my first) overseas visit.
Tsarko Selo
FC Tsarko Selo, now a Bulgarian First Tier football club hosted us at their sports training complex for our training camp. We stayed in 2 person rooms spread across a couple of apartment buildings. The rooms are well kept and each has it’s own little balcony area, which was mostly used for airing sweaty kit!
The ‘hotel’ complex itself has a host of great facilities. Inside there is a pool, sauna, steam room, hot tub and plunge pool. These provide fantastic recovery after some tough training sessions during the day. A small gym with a few machines is also located indoors, set in an idyllic location with a real ‘secret escape’ water fountain as the centrepiece.
Back outside is the main pool, with a little undercover enclave and plenty of deckchairs and seating areas. This provided ample space for our squad and the international gymnastic teams that were also staying at the complex, to have their own areas.
We were catered for downstairs in the on-site restaurant. Here, buffet style meals were provided for all the teams staying, as well as Tsarko Selo players of all ages, if they were on site training.
Training Sessions
Although a great place to unwind and relax, the Tsarko Selo was also home to our daily football training sessions. With the choice of a large, indoor 4G pitch or several grassed outdoor pitches, the facilities available were fantastic and well kept.
We had morning and afternoon sessions (on non-game days) which included targeted fitness training, specific drills and practice matches. With our accredited coaches taking the reigns, the sessions were well-structured and certainly put us through our paces. We quickly went from a bunch of individuals to a cohesive team unit, which was crucial for the fixtures scheduled.
That being said, most of the team bonding happened off the pitch, starting on our first day in Bulgaria.
UEFA Nation’s League – Bulgaria vs Norway
As part of our visit to Bulgaria, the event organisers had managed to book us tickets to the Nations League match, held at the Vasil Levski Stadium (the nation’s home venue). We arrived in convoy by Yellow Taxi, the highly recommended Uber of Sofia, and walked along the boulevard lined with Bulgarians and small stalls offering national merchandise. On approaching the stadium, with the surrounding woodland, you wouldn’t expect to see the concrete structure symbolising the nation’s football epicentre.
Upon entering, we headed to our central seats, only a few blocks away from the traveling Norway fans. There couldn’t have been any more than 50; either making the journey from Norway or Norwegians inhabiting Bulgaria, they were there wearing their nation’s colours and singing as loudly as they could.
The Bulgarian support was deafing at times, even somewhat intimidating. The deep, Eastern European, booming accents could be heard in their chants which filled the stadium. This seemed to be enough to put off the players on the pitch, as Norway succumbed to a 1-0 defeat.
The game itself was not to the standard you come to expect after spectating English football, nonetheless the experience was fantastic. We bonded well together over a couple of drinks and the football, before Yellow Taxiing back to the complex.
Icarus vs Bulgarian National Army – Vasil Levski Stadium
After watching a national fixture be played in Bulgaria’s ‘home of football’ it was a totally different experience arriving to play our own fixture there! We were scheduled to play against the Bulgarian National Army and, although considerably less supporters, it was still a surreal opportunity.
The promenade leading to the stadium was considerably quieter when we arrived than it was with the national buzz. However, walking in through the main entrance instead of the turnstiles was great. The changing rooms were incredible (considering the only experience I have had previously is Saturday league cold showers) with TVs, individual player lockers and an ice bath! There was plenty of space for our whole squad and the atmosphere for us was great.
The game itself was less impressive. Our hosts undoubtedly had a greater support (the ambassador to Bulgaria for the UK, who was in attendance, was our only fan present) which certainly swayed the performances on the pitch.
We were comfortably beaten, but to experience playing football on a national pitch (albeit with one stand half full) was a fantastic experience and one I will never forget! After the game we showered and got into our suits, before heading out onto the streets of Sofia for a 15 minute walk from the stadium to the ambassador’s house.
Ambassador’s Reception
Icarus had been invited, along with our Bulgarian opponents, to dinner at the ambassador’s ‘house’ (I would go as far as to say a D-List mansion). We went through a security checkpoint into the gated compound where we were greeted with offerings of a local Bulgarian beer and a room for our kitbags. We headed into the party and split, heading off in small groups to talk to the dignitaries present.
There were high ranking officers from both the UK military and Bulgarian, as well as a couple of political members (apparently) who we made our way around for small talk. It was as much an occasion for some ‘schmoozing’ as it was anything else; NATO and Brexit talks were centre stage and we were given party lines to take on any subject that could be deemed sensitive. Nonetheless, the night was fantastic (the food, drink and music kept coming), as were the speeches and another momentous experience to top off a once in a lifetime day!
Icarus vs CSKA Sofia U19s – CSKA Sofia
For a week in Bulgaria, we could hardly justify only one high calibre match. The second of the week’s trio of fixtures came at CSKA Sofia’s ground against their U19 academy. Upon arriving at the gates to the ground, only a short distance from the Vasil Levski, it was breathtaking to observe the culture. The club has a history with hooliganism and gangs, with a lot of associated violence. Graffiti and lots of club scarves littered the walk to the stadium, signifying the club’s history. Being a Bulgarian first tier stadium, and having competed in European competitions, we were expecting big things for the Bulgarian Army Stadium.
Although the changing rooms weren’t as large and impressive as the Vasil Levski, but were certainly stooped in history. As we walked the pitch prior to warming up, some of the ‘ultras’ were setting up their flags for the weekend’s fixture. You could visualise the atmosphere at a packed CSKA Sofia European Cup fixture; somewhat intimidating for any opposition!
Our game against the Under 19 age-group of CSKA Sofia’s academy was, unsurprisingly, less well attended and the only spectators were the family of those young footballers looking to showcase their skill. We were convincingly beaten by a group of players who, from amongst their ranks, the next great Bulgarian footballers will emerge.
Community Matters
The week in Bulgaria was not just about football. As well as the visit to the ambassador’s residence, our other defence engagement was at the Tsarko Selo, with a local charity called the Cedar Foundation, who work with disadvantaged children across Sofia. Students from the British School of Sofia had organised a sports day as part of their diploma, for the Cedar Foundation and we were asked to assist/take part.
The day was very well run and it was a pleasure to take part in. The students, who spoke fantastic English, had organised a range of activities where teams (of a mix of students and Icarus players) competed in a hearty competition. It was a thoroughly enjoyable event and a great opportunity to engage with the community in Sofia.
Icarus vs DHL Bulgaria – Tsarko Selo
Our final fixture of the week was against a team from DHL (yep, that delivery company you see with the yellow vans driving around) at our very own Tsarko Selo. We lined up on the pitches we had trained on all week and got to work against a very physical, experienced side. Icarus ran out 2-1 winners (after a last minute goal to seal the game) which topped off a fantastic week and visit to Sofia, Bulgaria’s capital.