Hiking up Britain’s biggest mountain is an achievement many strive for. Nonetheless, many achieve this feat every single year. For those that complete it, there are others who fail and some who even die trying. As Storm Ciara hit the UK, we found ourselves climbing Ben Nevis. The weather was a mild -6°C at the summit and winds of 22mph; it made for a tasty attempt.
Of the various routes ascending Ben Nevis, we took the Mountain Path. Although sometimes referred to as the Tourist Path, this route is the ‘easiest’ way up the mountain. The name had to be changed, as many people attempt the climb poorly prepared. They assume the ‘tourist’ mindset and end up in trouble. However, we came prepared; we had crampons, ice axes, transponders and lots of layers! As well as experienced guides!
Beginning the Climb
The ascent began in mild conditions. We parked up and headed out onto the route, with no snow and very little wind. Within the first 30 minutes, we were already removing layers and getting water on board. Before long, the first signs of snow were showing on the ground, often covering small streams. This caused a few interesting trips and wet feet! Thanks to good quality boots and gaiters, cold injuries were not a problem.
As we continued to climb, the snow got deeper and the layers were back on. The wind strength increased and we certainly began to feel the cold. Our next water stop came overlooking Loch Meall An T-Suidhe, which had began half freezing over. The snow was very deep by this stage and the path was predominantly visible from the footsteps of those ahead of us. The cloud layer was pretty much at where we were, meaning that as we ascended further, visibility would drop.
For anyone who’s taken the Mountain Path up Ben Nevis will most likely agree that the most tedious part are the zig zags. Fortunately, we were accompanied up by a small bird (unsure of the breed exactly) which flew close to our group. It continued with us until the weather really deteriorated. Along here, we stopped to get our crampons on, to aid with the walk. It was even harder to see the paths ahead, however our instructors were well experienced. They had been up in even worse conditions, so we applied faith in their knowledge!
Tackling the Summit
Shortly before the summit, we reached the first of Nevis’ cairns. These aid navigation to the summit, which were crucial on our ascent! We could barely see subsequent cairns, which only sit 100m apart. To navigate, we used a combination of visual and compass bearings to safely scale the final few feet to the top. Despite the difficult conditions, we made it!
We stopped for a while at the top, in the summit hut, to have some lunch. It was a tight squeeze getting 9 into the small hut, and the metal floor was freezing. Wearing crampons also added to the lack of comfort, but it beat sitting out in the wind and snow!
Back to Reality
The descent was, naturally, faster. The crampons came off as we emerged from the clouds, and the views were spectacular. Muall An T-Suidhe had snow settled all over the earlier frozen ice and the snow wasn’t letting up. With walking poles to our assistance, to save the knee strain, we powered down the mountain and back to the van, just as the dark was setting in.
A fantastic summit of Ben Nevis, in challenging conditions. We stayed the night in the Ben Nevis Hotel, with its on site spa and pool. This proved for a fantastic way to unwind and recover after the day, so I would highly recommend it. Fort William is an enjoyable evening out too!
Climbing Ben Nevis is certainly not a challenge to take lightly. Good preparation, taking into account the weather, time of year and ability of your group is essential. Nonetheless, it is a rewarding challenge and worth every bit of the effort.