For most people who are interested in rock climbing, the UK has plenty of amazing sites to get your fix. There are an array of indoor walls, quarries and crags around the country to suit a range of climbing styles. I got my first proper taste of climbing in Cyprus and it made me fall in love with the sport. It is relatively straight forward to start, with only minimal kit required for a beginner to get climbing.
Once your kit’s sorted (bought or borrowed), it’s time to learn the basic climbing/belaying techniques. Then, it’s out onto the crag!
Cape Greco
Possibly one of the most popular climbing sites in Cyprus, Cape Greco sits in the most Southern East corner of the island. Located between Protaras and Ayia Napa, it is a series of limestone crags suited to climbers of all experience levels.
The limestone rock itself can be a climber’s best friend, yet also their worst nightmare. With it’s prominence on the peninsula, the rock is in parts very weathered. There are numerous holes, cracks and flakes which make gear placements relatively straightforward. It also means there are many easy hand/foot holds on most of the routes. However, much of the rock is loose and sharp, so care must be taken. Some of the holes are quite fragile too, so before relying on any gear placements you should test each piece.
There are many sport routes which are well bolted, plenty of trad routes and places to set up top/bottom ropes and abseils for beginners. A site suitable for all, but as always, care must be taken!
Droushia
I would argue that Droushia is my favourite climbing location in Cyprus. There are several crags in the vicinity, however I would highly recommend Gerakopetra. This site not only boasts some challenging sport routes but also a spectacular 50m abseil opportunity! The views over the coast are pretty great too!
The crag is fairly accessible, but does require an element of off-road driving and a strong stomach, if you are to drive right up to the crag. Otherwise you can park further away and walk. The abseil point is right by the parking area, so it is a good place to start with an abseil to the climbs!
The routes themselves are slightly more technical than Cape Greco or Dhiarizos below. Some routes have large gaps between bolts, which with areas of scarce rock can make the climbs mentally challenging.
I found the edge of my ability level (at the moment) reaching the final bolt on Kathodigitis. It was my first exposure to an ‘overhang’, albeit small, and with the previous bolt below me I was uncomfortable. Still, having faith in the kit I gave it multiple attempts, with multiple falls, before throwing in the towel. The route is only a 6a, but for a relative beginner (first week of climbing) it became my nemesis. It’s certainly on my list to attempt again when I return to Cyprus!
Dhiarizos
Also known locally as Jameson, this is another site located on the West of the island. Here you can find, arguably, the best sport routes on the island. I would agree with this statement, as there’s everything from a 3 to 7c+, all of which bringing their own challenges.
The main attraction of the climbing is on the Main Slab and Main Wall. The slab is more geared towards beginner/intermediate climbers, or even more experienced climbers for warm-up routes. Opposite Main Slab in the same gulley is Main Wall. These routes are much harder, with the rock face more scarce. Whilst still achievable, these routes can take a lot longer and require more work!
For the day we were here climbing, the sun was beating down on us for most of the morning on Main Slab. Fortunately there is some shelter under the trees for between climbs. To that end, the Road Sector climbs are better shaded for the morning.
Pendadhaktylos (Nicosia)
The final climbing spot on this list is Pendadhaktylos, particularly the Gargantuas Suyu crag. This is the oldest sport crag in Cyprus and boasts some of the most proven routes for the intermediate/experienced climber. Considered the best climbing in the Turkish territory of Cyprus, the site also showcases some fantastic views.
The site can be quite busy (and noisy) due to its proximity to the main road, however this proves little distraction to the climbs themselves. Some are quite technical in areas, whilst others just have to combat the sharp rock! Whilst I haven’t personally climbed here due to COVID-19 restrictions, many of my climber friends who have experienced pre-lockdown Cyprus have sung its praises!
So there we have it. A review of some of the best spots for some climbing in Cyprus. For such a small island nation, many would only consider the watersports (kayaking, diving or even banana-boating) or trekking up into the mountains. Rock climbing as an activity is often overlooked, but there is certainly something for everyone on the island. If you ever find yourself in Cyprus, why not try it out?!